Frost River Ilse Royal Jr. Bushcraft Pack & Bucket Modification

In my last couple of posts, I have been referring to  my "new bushcraft pack".  Well, I figured I ought to show it off and explain a little bit about the pack, why I chose it, and my impressions after receiving it........ in short, a bit of a review with my thoughts and musings about it.  So here we go!

I have a number of vintage military rucksacks, but I was hesitant to break them out for field use, and I was really interested in something that was new made, very rugged, and yet kept that "old-shcool" style and charm.  After a ton of research on line, and reading a ton of reviews and narratives, I finally settled on the Frost River, Ilse Royal Jr. Bushcraft Pack.

Frost River Ilse Royal Bushcraft Pack

I was very impressed with the company's philosophy and dedication to 100% made in the USA products.  When I say 100%, I mean just that...........  The Frost River Story and Philosophy

US made oilskin canvas made by Martexin
US tanned leather from  SB Foot Tannery, the makers of the leather for Red Wing Boots
Hand riveted and hand sewn by US workers in the Frost River workshop
100% solid brass hardware and rivets 

These packs are new-made to old shchool patterns and levels of quality that you just don't find in many companies these days.  The pack patterns are the tried and true styles that were refined in the fields and forests of America over 100 years ago.  A few refinements were made, but all-in-all, these packs are the same as their frontier ancestors!  They are "lifetime quality" and I expect to use this pack for the rest of my life and then pass it on to the next generation............ they are built to last, and last, and last, and are very repairable, just like the old packs.   In fact these packs are usually, "made to order".  When I ordered my pack, I was told that there would be a 2 to 3 week lead time before shipping so the pack could be made!  Someone actually held my order in hand, and then proceeded to cut and assemble the raw materials into MY pack!  Very cool!

With all of that said, I did have one disappointment when I received my pack.  When I first pulled the pack out of the package, I immediately knew I was holding my "dream pack".  When I looked a bit closer, the first thing that I noticed was that the non-load bearing  rivets looked great on the exterior side, but on the backside, they were sharp and "cheaply" mushroomed over "tube rivets".  The heads and shafts were sold brass, but the back portion was a hollow tube. These are what are called "semi-tubular rivets".

The "mushroomed" portion was sharp, with split metal "petals"....... and it looked bad....... it just looked cheap and not something I would ever expect on a pack at this price point or quality level.  Personally, I would never let anything like this leave my shop!  The rivets were "adequately" doing their intended job and were back-ups to the stitching, but why bother if they look so cheap and have sharp backs that can snag and cut?  

I believe that this type of semi-tubular rivet is meant to be set with a special punch that rolls and mushrooms the tubular end into a smooth, circular, "eyelet" type backing that works as the "mushroom" back.  These are not meant to split and tear out when they are installed!

For a few cents per rivet more, and probably for the same amount of assembly time, the job could have been done right.......... and that is exactly what I did for them.

The rivets on the left are my "replacement rivets", the right-hand rivets are the Frost River "load bearing" rivets.

I drilled out and removed all of the "mushroomed and split" rivets and replaced them with my own solid aluminum tinners rivets with brass washers. 

It took about half an hour to do the full job, and it was infinitely worth it!  Now the pack looks the way it should and is a "lifetime pack".  This is one improvement I would recommend to any new Frost River pack owner.  I have been a long time owner and user of Filson products, and you would never expect to see, and I have never seen,  this cheap riveting on their packs!  Frost River really dropped the ball on this area!  I am glad I had the rivets and the skill to make the rivet upgrade myself.

I will give them credit for the load bearing rivets.  These babies are beasts!  Big, heavy and solid.  Installed correctly and meant to last more than a lifetime!  This is what I expected on ALL of the riveted areas!

I also constructed an internal bucket to give the pack some rigidity and shape when hauling loose loads.  This is very reminiscent of the old pack baskets.  I used a plastic office trash can, and cut it down to fit.  As you can see from the shape, I made it with a long back, and a lower bucket-shelf.  

I sanded and rounded all of the sharp edges with sandpaper and then added a piece of solid cell camp-pad foam to the back.  The foam is attached with Velcro so it can be removed easily and will not slip when the unit is installed in the pack.  I used the super-sticky, peel-n-stick Velcro strips.  I used a heat gun to soften and reshape the lower portion of the bucket so it better fits the shape of my lower back.

I also added a vintage Mosin Nagant ammo pouch to the upper side side cinch strap.  This works perfectly to hold my head lamp in one side, and my car keys in the other.  These old pouches are made of "pleather" which makes them very weather resistant and nearly waterproof, and they match the pack style and colors! I have a second pouch that can be added to other side as well, if needed.

One very cool feature on these packs is the "axe tube" that lets you carry your hatchet or axe easily.  When the axe is slid into the tube, it is held securely by the pack flap that will cover it.  Here it is with my restored 1950's Boy Scout Axe (more on that in another blog posting!).

I purchased two of the bedroll straps from Frost River when I ordered the pack so I would have at least one set of matching leather straps for the bottom of the pack.  These are definitely "bedroll straps" long enough for a blanket roll, or my rolled zeltbahn tent, but not long enough for a sleeping bag. (also had to replace the rivets on these straps!).

The Frost River straps are in the foreground, not installed.

An now to finish things up, here is an album of Frost River Ilse Royal Jr. shots....... enjoy!

Padded shoulder straps.  Closed cell foam glued to the harness leather and covered in elk skin!

Frost River straps on top, Czech Army straps on bottom.

Swedish Zeltbahn Tent Set-Up

Since I've been going through my zeltbahn collection to find just the right set to use for my bushcraft adventures, I figured I might as well start setting up the various styles.  One of my favorites to use as a tent, is the Swedish zeltbahns.  

Zeltbahns in use by the Swedish Army, 1970's

Here's a link to a couple of my previous blog write-ups on these zelts:

swedish-m39-zeltbahns 

knappetalt-swedish-zeltbahn-update 

These zeltbahns make one of the nicest tent set ups, but they are HEAVY!  
It takes four of them to make a decent, useable tent.  The bulk and weight of four Swedish zeltbahns, with the associated poles and stakes, is just too much weight and bulk for one person to pack, so, I will use these as a "base camp" set up.  If you had four people, each packing one zelt, it would be a great set up.  It's just me and my one pack, so unfortunately, the Swedish zelts are off the "packable list".

As a comfortable and very cool, very functional, base camp tent, this zelt-tent set up is outstanding!  I used two sets of vintage WW2 Swiss tent poles and stake sets.  I used one set for the center pole and one set for the "tent flap pole".  I also used one of my custom guy lines with the spliced-in end loops.

Here's how it looks all set up, with views of a couple of different tent flap configurations.  By far my favorite configuration is to lift one flap as an awning, held up by the second pole and guy line...........  very roomy and spacious inside!

Hungarian Zeltbahn M49/82 Set Up as Tent , With Mosin Nagant 91/30 Option

A couple of years ago I picked up a single Hungarian Zeltbahn Rain-Cape. It has been gathering dust in my shop waiting to find its way into the field for use.  Well now is that time!

I have added a second rain-cape zeltbahn and now I have a matched set for field use.  This double set-up is going to be my regular "bushcraft tent" for my back country adventuring.

Before I get into the meat of this posting, here are a couple of links to my original postings that covers some of the details and history of these amazing zeltbahn rain-capes:

hungarian-m49/82 zeltbahn rain-cape

hungarian M49/82 History

First off, I would like to highly recommend these Hungarian zelts to anyone who would like to add a very traditional piece of survival - camping gear to their field gear.  These zelts are cut to the same pattern as the original WW2 versions, but are made with a much lighter and stronger fabric.  The fabric itself must be a poly-cotton mix of some sort that has a very high thread count weave.  They are treated with a traditional "oilskin" treatment, but lack the nasty "surplus" smell!

I had an afternoon of "field maneuvers" in the backyard so I could field test and fine-tune the two zelt set-up.  I worked out the bugs, made a few adjustments, and figured out how I plan to roll and carry the tent on my pack...... it was a very successful day!

My double-zelt tent with poles, strapped to the bottom of my Frost Ilse Royal Jr. Pack

Both of my Hungarian zeltbahn rain-capes are in virtually unissued condition.  One is from 1989 and the other is dated 1992.  

Originally these late model zelts were issued with an expandable aluminum center pole to the Hungarian troops.  In the years prior to that, WW2 through the early post-war years, the standard issue Mosin Nagant 91/30 rifle with bayonet was used as the tent pole!  Since I was lacking the aluminum pole, but just happened to have an original Mosin Nagant in the shop, I decided to set up one of the zelts with the rifle-pole to determine the propper center pole length.

The Mosin Nagant rifle with the attached bayonet, is exactly the right length to use as the center pole!  This definitely confirms that these zelt rain-capes were deigned around the rifle as a center pole set-up.  I measured my center pole-rifle height, and then made up a"custom" pole set for my own field use.  

I used one standard WW2 issue, Swiss zeltbahn tent pole set, and added a short, fourth length, to bring the assembled pole to the correct length.  I also added some additional tent stakes from a couple of other spare Swiss pole sets.  The new pole set works perfectly and has that authentic "old-school" look. (fortunately I had one broken Swiss pole that I could use to trim down to the correct length for the 4th pole).

It is very important to have the correct center pole height when you assemble two of these zelts for use as a double tent.  If the pole is too short, the perimeter edges will lay flat on the ground.  If the pole is two long, you will not be able to insert the pole in it's vertical position with the perimeter corners staked in the correct position.  When the pole is the correct length, the tent sides are flat and the bottom edges touch the ground perfectly.

To start the assembly and set up of the double-zelt configuration for a tent, button both zelts together at both edges.  This will form the "pyramid" once the center pole is added.

Lay out the tent on the ground and spread it flat, leaving the extra fabric piled and bunched in the middle.

Stake out the corners, but leave the mid-stakes out.

Unbutton the middle portion of the "entrance seam" (leave the bottom buttoned to hold the perimeter shape) and insert the assembled tent pole inside.  Run the "point" of the pole into the top grommets and then lift the top up with the pole and then leave the center pole wedged vertically in place.

Now you can adjust the corner stakes and then add the mid-edge stakes.

No guy lines or ropes are required to keep the tent erect in this configuration, the stakes do all the work.  
If you want to open one edge and fold back the sides to make a lean-to type set up, then you will need to add a single pole line.  I have made up one that is the correct length that will span from the top of the pole to the existing corner stake, with the front edges folded back.  I spliced an eye in both ends of  the custom line to make installation quick and easy.

There are a number of ways you can "open up" the zelt tent after it is set up.........You can lift just one side of the entrance:

You can fold both sides of the entrance back to form a half shelter, or you can just leave the zelt in its pyramid form and use the edge slit as the "door.  
With a little bit of experimenting you will see that there are quite a few other options as well.  Just be sure to place your helmet or a "pot" over the top of the tent where the tent pole comes through the zelt grommets or you will have a leak in the rain!  (That's why you see the soldier's helmets on the top of all the old zelts in the vintage photos!).

To finish things up, here is a photo album of the new Double-Zelt set up.............

I hope this "tutorial" and field exercise helps get a few more of these wonderful Hungarian zelts back in use.  If you have the chance to get a couple of them, grab them!  You won't be disappointed!

Swedish Mess Kit and Stove Snuffer Modification

I have recently rediscovered my old Swedish Mess Kit and Stove.  I have been setting up a new bushcraft pack with old military "camping gear", and the mess kit has found its place as a permanent addition.

I have been test firing the little Svea stove that is included in the in the kit, and I quickly discovered that for extended cooking missions, I needed some way to easily and efficiently snuff out the flame.... without burning my fingers or melting the O-ring in the screw-on cap.  I needed some sort of snuffer.

My solution to the problem was to make a modified metal cup that would serve as a portable flame snuffer.

Here's how I put it together:  I swung by our local Goodwill Store and picked up a stainless steel kitchen prep-cup that fit easily over the burner top.  I drilled a small hole in the bottom and then inverted the cup.  

I added an eyelet made of stainless steel wire, inserted it in the hole and bent over the "legs".  I added a short piece of chain and then made a hook out of some more stainless steel wire.

The new snuffer works perfectly!  The chain is just long enough to keep your fingers and hand clear of the flame and the hook lets you find the end of the chain easily.  

When the burner is cool, you can remove the snuffer and relight the stove for the next cooking mission, or screw on the burner cap without the danger of melting the O-ring in the cap!

As a nice side-note......... the snuffer is extremely lightweight and fits easily inside the messkit when everything is packed.  My little simmer ring nests inside the cup as well.  Very compact, light and extremely efficient!

A perfect solution!

Be sure to check out my other blog write-ups on these amazing Swedish Mess Kits:

swedish-m40-mess-kit-svea-stove

swedish-m40-mess-kit-simmer-ring

swedish-m40-mess-kit-stove-modification

swedish-m40-mess-kit-svea-alcohol-stove Tips